A fragment of purple fabric, a sacred chiton (tunic), found in a royal tomb in Vergina, Macedonia, northern Greece, could be that of Alexander the Great! The team of archaeologists uncovered a cotton textile dyed in purple that aligns with ancient accounts of the sarapis, a ceremonial garment worn by Persian kings, which Alexander adopted after his victory over Darius III. The textile was found in the golden ossuary of Tomb II, along with the remains of a male individual and a golden oak wreath.
A Regal Fabric: Tyrian Purple of Alexander
The study, led by Antonis Bartsiokas from Democritus University of Thrace, has been published in The Journal of Field Archaeology. After conducting a series of chemical, physical, and microscopic analyses, the researcher team concluded that the fabric is cotton, a rare material during that period.
The royal tunic Alexander wore was dyed with “Tyrian purple,” a color reserved for royalty across many ancient cultures. This color emphasized his rank and imperial dominance. Purple was a rare luxury, symbolizing wealth, power, and divinity.
Part of the frieze of Tomb II showing hunter six (Alexander the Great) wearing a sarapis with two whitish stripes (layers) between the purple ones, which correspond to those of the material in the male ossuary of Tomb II. (A. Bartsiokas/Journal of Field Archaeology)
They also discovered traces of huntite, a material prized in Persia for its brilliant whiteness, between the layers of the textile, reinforcing the theory that this garment had ‘Eastern’ origins.
Tomb II, located in the Great Tumulus of Vergina, has been the subject of extensive debate regarding the identity of who has been buried there.
This discovery challenges the long-held belief that the artifacts found in Tomb II belonged to Philip II, Alexander’s father. It instead supports the idea that they may have belonged to Alexander the Great or his half-brother, Philip III Arrhidaeus (largely a nominal head), who inherited some of Alexander’s royal symbols after his death.
Tomb II (“Tomb of Philip II”) at Vergina. Back of facade and exterior of barrel vault with remains of funeral pyre. (Mark Landon/Public Domain)
Sarapis: Transformative Display of Ancient Globalization
Tomb II includes a golden diadem, a scepter, and a golden oak wreath, all which match descriptions in historical texts of Alexander’s regalia. The discovery of the sarapis was transformative as this garment carried deep symbolic importance in the Persian court. The sarapis was a purple tunic with a white stripe down the center, reserved solely for Persian kings. Alexander’s decision to wear it was a deliberate act, signaling his supremacy over the Persian Empire.
Male bones and textile fragments discovered in the Tomb II that are believed to be pieces of the tunic of Alexander the Great. (Theodore G. Antikas et al.)
The research team employed advanced scientific techniques, such as Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Their analysis confirmed the presence of cotton and royal purple dye, extracted from murex snails, a resource-intensive process that required large quantities of these mollusks, reports LBV Magazine.
Clearly, Macedonia and Persia were connected in the ancient world in their own ways. The use of Persian textiles and royal symbols in the Macedonian court underlines the extent of Persian influence following Alexander’s conquests. Alexander was clearly a ruler who embodied multiple titles, from Pharaoh of Egypt to King of Greece and Emperor of Persia.
The frieze of the tomb provides presents a scene depicting a hunter, believed to represent Alexander, wearing a purple tunic with a white stripe, resembling the sarapis described in historical accounts.
For Alexander, the chiton became an important part of his imperial image, blending elements from different cultures to assert his authority over a vast empire. Throughout history, royal garments have helped explore how symbols of power have fused with culture and regality in the ancient world.
The identification of what may be Alexander’s sacred chiton one again throws up both doubts and questions regarding which of the family is actually buried in the baffling Vergina Tomb II.
Top image: Left; Facade of Tomb II in Vergina, Greece. Right; Bones and textile fragments from the tomb. Source: Left; Panegyrics of Granovetter (Sarah Murray)/Public Domain. Right; Theodore G. Antikas
By Sahir Pandey